MATTERHORN – HORNLI ROUTE

Day 1:

Trip to Zermatt – Meeting the guide around 19h00 to finalise the details of the week.

 

Day 2:

Zermatt (1620m) - Rothornhütte (3198m)

Duration: 5h

Elevation gain/loss: + 580m

 

Day 3:

Rothornhütte (3198m) - Zinalrothorn (4221m) – Trift Hut (2337m)

Duration: 8h

Elevation gain/loss: + 1030m / - 1900m

 

Day 4:

Trift Hut (2337m) - Zermatt (1620m)

Duration: 2h30

Elevation gain/loss: - 720m

 

Day 5:

Zermatt (1620m) - Gondola lift to Schwarzsee (2583m) - Hornli Hut (3260m)

Duration: 3h

Elevation gain/loss: + 680m

 

Day 6:

Hornli Hut (3260) - Matterhorn (4478m) - Schwarzsee (2583m) – Cable car to Zermatt (1620m)

Duration: 10h

Elevation gain/loss: + 1230m / - 1900m

Included:

  • UIAGM/AEGM Mountain Guide services.
  • Personal advises prior the trip.
  • Safety equipment for the whole group.
  • Reservations management services.

 

Not Included:

  • Travelling to Zermatt.
  • Transfers and/or cable cars.
  • Accommodation, food and drinks.
  • Members and guide/s extra expenses due to possible unexpected program variations.

 

Additional information:

  • Each group member taking part in the program is required to possess an at date license issued by the Mountaineering Federation valid in the Alps.
  • Alpinism is an extraordinary pass time but it involves risks. Each member of this journey takes full responsibility of what could happen.
  • The mountain guide reserves the right to modify the program depending on weather and snow conditions, group factor or any other cause that in his opinion may be decisive.
  • Cramponable mountaineering boots
  • Telescopic trekking poles

 

  • Crampons with anti-balling plates
  • Helmet
  • Ice axe

 

  • 40 l. backpack
  • Light harness
  • Headlight + batteries

 

  • 2 x screw-lock carabiners
  • 1 x 6 mm dyneema sling 3m long
  • 1 x 6 mm dyneema sling 1.5m long
  • 1 x ice screw

 

  • Cap
  • Sunglasses
  • Sun cream factor 50+
  • Lip balm factor 50+

 

  • Goggles
  • Thin gloves
  • Ski gloves
  • Midweight socks + spare
  • Buff
  • Hat
  • Durable summer mountaineering pants
  • Base layer pants
  • Lightweight Gore-Tex pants
  • Gore-Tex jacket
  • Primaloft
  • Polartec or lightweight fleece
  • “Micro-fibre” base layer long sleeve t-shirt + spare

 

  • Snacks (sandwich, chocolates, cereal bars, ...)
  • Water bottle 1.5 l.

 

  • Silk sleeping bag

 

  • Mobile phone
  • Camera
  • Chargers

 

  • ID/Driving license
  • Cash (provide foreign currency if needed)
  • Mountaineering Federation license valid for the Alps.
  • Abroad health Insurance

For the outdoor activity that you plan to be successful it is very important that it accommodates to your level, both physical and technical. Here we present some guidelines so that you can get an idea of what your level is according to the programs we propose. However, we recommend reaching to us so we can help you personally and adapt the program to your conditions.

 

Alpinism & Climbing

 

    TECHNICAL level

  • 1 = No or very little experience in mountaineering. Has big expertise in trekking. Able to walk on varied terrain (snow or rock) with some simple easy climbs. Graduation ascents "F".
  • 2 = Reduced experience on big mountains and mountaineering. Has accomplished some climbs with the use of ice axe and crampons on steep terrain. Has travelled across alpine glaciers. Has slight notion of climbing and progression on ridgelines. Graduation ascents "PD".
  • 3 = Frequently on big mountains and mountaineering. Accomplishes periodic ascents with the use of ice axes and crampons on steep terrains. Manages the rope for belaying. Travels across alpine glaciers and snowy or icy slopes. Has some knowledge on rock climbing up to IV or Vº and progression on ridgelines. Graduation ascents "AD".
  • 4 = Solid experience on big mountains and mountaineering. Has already performed alpine ascents and classic rock climbs of multiple pitches up to Vº or 6a. Is able to place gear to protect oneself. Masters rope work, belaying and rapelling. Has knowledge of snow and ice climbing techniques. Is familiar with the use of crampons and ice axes on icy or snowy slopes of more than 60º. Graduation ascents "D".
  • 5 = Extensive background on big mountains and mountaineering. Has performed alpine mixed routes as well as classic multi-pitch rock climbs up to 6a or 6b. Is familiar placing and removing trad gear such as friends, stoppers, ice screws. Masters rope work, building belay and rappel anchors. Knows how to perform a bivouac shelter. Experience in high altitude (4000m or over). Accustomed to use crampons and ice axes on icy or snowy slopes of more than 80º. Graduation ascents "MD".
  •  
  • FITNESS LEVEL

  • 1 = Completes easy hikes in the mountains of 3 or 4 hours long and 600 meters elevation gain carrying a light backpack of about 5 kg.
  • 2 = Able to carry out itineraries from 4 to 6 hours long and 800 meters of elevation gain carrying a backpack of about 7 kg.
  • 3 = Able to accomplish itineraries from 6 to 8 hours and 1000 meters elevation gain carrying a backpack of about 8 kg.
  • 4 = Able to complete routes for 10 hours and up to 1200 meters elevation gain with a backpack of about 8 kg.
  • 5 = Able to carry out long and hard routes of more than 12 hours and 1500 meters elevation gain carrying a heavy backpack of 10 kg or more.

Next Dates :

June to mid September

Description:

The splendid figure of the Matterhorn is absolutely magnificent. From Zermatt, the scene of its image is fascinating and can captivate anyone but specially the mountain lovers. Such iconic peak had to have an extraordinary conquest story and it is the case. On July 14, 1865 Edward Whymper conquered the Matterhorn after a long fight with Jean Antoine Carrel, who managed to ascend the Italian side three days later than Whymper reaching the top via the Hörnli ridge.

Four well define ridges (Hörnli, Furgen, Leone and Zmut) and four evident faces, converge on one of the most coveted peaks in the Alps. The Hörnli (Swiss route) and Leone (Italian route) ridges are the most frequented routes of ascent. The Hornli is the itinerary we will carry out, a superb rock climbing route of moderate difficulty. Without a doubt is a great high alpine journey.

LEVELS :

FITNESS
4
TECHNICAL
3

DOSSIER REQUEST FORM

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